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Neil, on your outro, you could have pointed up over your RH shoulder and said, “that’s my name; I’m here to help you”. Or words to that effect. Thanks for explaining another aspect of equipment purchasing.

Has anyone split in two a driveshaft on a Bushog? I recently purchased a titan 7ft Bushog along with a a newholland work master 60 tractor, and have cut into two two driveshaft,s causing hem to brake into two pieces

Slow down

How does the medium range compare to a JD 1025R low range?

slow down Neil, might want to do a video on optimum mowing speed.

And then there's the age old argument of just how sharp a mower blade should be. Some of these lawn dads think you should sharpen it between every use and that it should be sharp enough to shave with. Other says that OEM blades come sharp enough and to run what you brung (for those of you old enough to remember that expression). You'd think if the OEMs thought you should be sharpening them very frequently, there'd be an easier way to change them without having to buy a mower lift.

Blowing seal on hat filter

Nice comparison, Neill!!! I've heard about gator blades from a lot of folks, but this certainly answers the questions I had. I'm sticking with OEM!

Copperhead blades all the way!

Great video! I have an 1880, but I expect the weights are pretty similar. Sometimes I pull the whole loader, sometimes just the bucket. The SSQA bucket can go off and back on in seconds, where getting the loader back on can either be a smooth 2 minutes or a frustrating 15. I knew the bucket made a big difference, but I'm surprised the loader still had so much weight!

I had 1 pair of the Gator blades that would occasionally tick while running. Other than that no problem. I use them on a Kubota 2200 54” which very seldom bogs under any mowing load.

Slow down mowing speed

Great video sir

I had the exact same results with my John Deere 1025r with the 60D deck with the mulch kit installed

Neil, to do this test, you are taking too much of a cut at one time. Based on your measurement of 5 inches that you told use. You kept saying your 40Hp machine was laboring hard, so to do this test properly to truly test the blades, just take the top 1 inch off. The whole point of using the gator blades is for the vacuuming lifting effect. No one cuts just the top 1 inch off, but after all, this is for testing purposes only and will give you better results. If you want to take such a large deep cut in one pass for testing, then you need to consider widening the discharge opening so the clippings are thrown out easier. That is why your machine strains so much. Opening the exhaust shoot makes a big difference. Unless you want to mulch.

Wish blades lasted a year and a half on my zero turn. I get about 20 hours out of a set before the sandy soil has completely eaten them up!

Would have been interesting to put one Gator blade one new and one used, and simply look at the standing grass cut quality.

I believe you are mowing way too fast. My Brother In Law and I had identical zero turn mowers bought from the same dealer on the same day. He always mowed as fast as the zero turn could go. I drove to the conditions. My lawn looked great. His lawn looked like crap. He kept going back to the dealer as he was not happy with the cut. I said to him 2 or 3 times to slow down. Because a mower can go that fast is for transport at that speed. Mowing speed varies on the grass. Did not believe me and to this day he keeps telling friends how crap the mower is, when its all how he uses it. You mow way too fast in my opinion. (Unless that mowing video was sped up in editing)😁😁

How about a one and a half year review of that mower. What are your thoughts on the noise and the dust in the cab?

Im running Ballard Razors. I like them. Im going to try their X blade setup in the fall.

Is that where Ferris says to put a jackstand?

you need to SLOW DOWN you are going way to fast.

Three inches long? I keep mine at four inches and it’s always thick and healthy, even in the current SE PA heat. OEM Blades on BS 23s tractor.

Great comparison! Thanks! 👍👍👍

Smaller clippings from the Gator Blades clog up the deck on my Kubota 421-60kw in the early season. Work great late season and fall but not worth the hassle. I’m sticking with OE on my 2 acres.

Gotta ask, why missing tire on the standup?

I've been using Gator G3 and G5 blades for several years....they work great, and they mulch very well also. G3 blades for regular lawn mowers, so your basic push mowers, and self propelled 21 and 22 inch walk behinds and lawn/garden tractors, and homeowner model zero turns. The G5 blades might be available for some of higher end mowers, but you need more HP to run them as they're heavier. I wish I could get Gator Blades for the mid mount mower on my Kubota BX2680 60" deck. I haven't been able to find a set. I ran the Gator blades on my lawn tractor all the time, never swapped them out for different seasons, they did great on the Cub Cadet XT1 42" mower....the OEM blades were fine, but they seemed to not last as long, they got dull quick it seemed like, so I bought the G5 blades and after 2 seasons of mowing an acre each week, plus mulching in the fall, the blades were still fine for another season without needing to be sharpened. The cost of the G3 and G5 blades isn't too bad compared to the OEM blades....I also buy Oregon branded blades for OEM replacement blades as well as they tend to last longer between sharpening compared to OEM blades which tend to be the cheapest blades they can manage to find to put on. The G5 blades are wider, and thicker...so they do require more power to run them but it seemed like my lawn tractor didn't have an issue running the heavier blades.... Neil, slow down those Gator blades will work much better if you aren't trying to race across the lawn....no matter what blades you run, at the speed you were going its not going to leave a very good cut....and the whole machine was just bouncing along in the last clip, so no wonder you got less than good results with the Gator Blades. Just because the machine goes 15mph doesn't mean to mow at that speed.

Bought a new Kioti DK 4720, the regen light is red, to me red mean shut off! I drove to the house and could smell "hot", like paint burning. Why wasn't I informed by the dealer if it's a regular thing! I brush hog the pasture at 4700rpm, guessing that helps keep it clean.

Dude sloooow down let the blade hit the grass sheesh

New blades i uwe a flat file and remove the paint to make it sharp under the paint.

What another person has already said. Slow down. Just because a mower is advertised to run 10 or 12 mph, doesn’t mean you’re going to leave a good cut. You look like a bouncing ball and your deck is doing the same. I’m also guessing that the suspension on that mower is slightly over loaded. And when you’re in the large open areas raise the chute.

Thanks for going over this. Wouldn’t have figured it out on my own

Does anyone make a cab like that for Toro mowers?

Can you cover the fuel valves? Barely anything in the manual that explains, also which position is open and close, etc. You can run RH only, LF only or both, but still nothing in writing that explains valve open and closed positions, etc.

Pretty sure if you drop her down below 75 mph, you will find a better cut.. WAAAAAY to fast of ground speed.

Man, all those equipment manufacturers you work with and they can’t hook you up with a demo lawn sweeper? 😂

I run the gator blades in the fall to better mulch up the leaves from our maple tree and it mulches up the walnut fruit ankle twisters. You have to slow down and give the deck time to handle its business. In the summer months its standard blades. I sharpen each set when swapping so I'm always ready for next season.

Great comparison Neil. As I expected the majority of the time OEM is better. Good learning experience for me . Thanks

Running an FDR1660, the landpride high-lift blades give a great cut, but I've found the clippings from the gator blades are finer and "disappear" into the lawn a bit better. When mowing wet/heavy grass you definitely notice a difference in the power the gator blades require.

Proffesional lawn jockey here. Most OEM blades are designed to lift and cut. For side discharge decks you want the "high" lift blades. They will cut a longer piece but will throw the clippings farther. Rear discharge decks the gator blades do better.

This was well timed as I am not happy with the cut of my OEM blades and was looking at the Oregon blades and otehr Mulching styles.

landpride 54 in gator blade 3 p set

The disclaimers at the end was unnecessary. Real people dont care if someone swears. I be more "colorful" if i get shafted by the counsil at every turn or any of the red tape.

Laughed my as off, when he told the lawyer to work on his spelling.

Neil, 3" is what I mow DOWN to!! ;) Speaking of sharp blades, I've been doing them by hand with a file, so-so results. Happened to be "offered" a video by UA-cam where a guy tested a blade sharpening jig you use with an angle grinder and flap discs. Holds the blade AND the grinder. I can't find that video again but here is a similar one ua-cam.com/video/gPsdy6Q2vsg/v-deo.html

Blade speed is what it is all about. Like a propeller.

So many variables! It must be great fun to be a mower deck engineer. I've run Gator on my 48" 25HP Gravely zero-turn, and wasn't impressed. Length of grass, moisture, time of year (for those of us with a variety of grasses and some other stuff growing in our lawns, some parts of the year mow different than others). I keep coming back to OEM, which seems to provide the best consistency as those variables change, so the engineers did their job well.

I run gatorblades in the fall for mulching leaves and it does an awesome job but I run oem highlift blades all summer on my deere they seem to shoot the clippings farther and scatters them better less clumping that way

This video is three years old and most of the information you provide is still relevant and valuable. Keep up the excellent videos! Thanks for informing us. 🇺🇸🦅🇺🇸

Very good Lane Shark video.